LETS CATCH SOME WAVES DUDE
Well . . . I have to say that today was filled with tons of surfing attempts along with a bit of sunburn. I went to the beach with my two best friends: Andrew and Heather. Heather stayed on the beach to tan and take photographs while Andrew and I ran to the Ocean with our surf boards in hand.
Thank GOD for Lizzie teaching me the basics to surfing because I think I might have died if I did not know how to paddle or handle big waves. Lizzie taught me the proper technique to paddling and she also taught me to push the tip of my board down when a big wave is about to come so that I could go UNDER the wave and stay safe rather than OVER the wave and face the possibility of getting hurt or loosing my board.
The waves were massive today, and Andrew and I paddled our little hearts out into the roaring ocean! We were both so concentrated with paddling that neither of us realized that the current was taking us further and further down the beach. At one point I got ahead of Andrew and, after a big wave passed, I looked back to see Andrew all disheveled and half off his board with his sun glasses hanging from one ear. It was a pretty comical sight! Those sunglasses did not survived the surfing encounter.
Andrew and I paddled as far out as possible and then we turned around to catch some waves to surf into shore. I tried to stand up once and I could tell that it was not going to happen. Not today, at least. Andrew and I surfed on our bellies all the way into shore. I did what Lizzie taught me. I made an educated guess on what wave to surf in to shore and I paddled with all my might!! I think I did a pretty good job and I think I definitely learned a bit more about surfing. Lizzie taught me so much, but I also think it is important to get out on my own so I can learn from trial and error and, most of all, experience!
P E A C E & L O V E
Gosh that board with the green wax looks familiar... where have I seen it before? Oh, I'll remember sometime.
ReplyDeleteoh boy what a fun day! :D
ReplyDeleteVery nice, very proud. I cannot wait to take you out and see what you do...expect a looong trip soon? Yesh I thinks so :)
ReplyDeleteYEY I CANT WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ReplyDelete